What's on in 2011

Our next meeting will be on Wednesday 16th February 2011 at 10.00am to noon in the Cloisters at Rayleigh Church.
Please note this meeting was booked some time ago so it is in the Cloisters, not the Mill Hall.
It will include a slide show of Old Benfleet given by John Downer, Secretary of the Benfleet and District Historical Society. £4 per head to include tea/coffee/biscuits. Open to all U3A members.

Then on Wednesday 16th March we explore the old sailing town of Burnham on Crouch.
Meet at the church at 10.00 to include tea and coffee. Short drive from church to clock tower. Then a guided walk from the Clock Tower in the main street, starting at 11.15am and taking about one and a half hours. A break for lunch in any of the cafes and pubs and then the option of visiting the Museum (in an old boat house) near the waterfront. £4 per head.

On Thursday 31st March we visit the Titanic artefacts exhibition at O2 by coach and then go onto old Greenwich.

Thursday 21st April sees us touring Old Leigh under the guidance of members of the Leigh Heritage Society.
Meet 10.00am at the Heritage Centre. £2 per head.


Book visits with Heather Flemmings, monthly U3A meetings, email heatherfl@lineone.net or phone 01702 204943
Pay David Fryer-Kelsey, monthly U3A meetings or post 113 Greensward Lane, Hockley, Essex, SS5 5HS. Cheques made out to U3A Rayleigh please.

Our next meeting is in November

Our next meeting will be an indoor meeting in association with the Social History Group in Cloister Hall on Monday 15th November 10.00am to noon. David Carlton and David Fryer-Kelsey will talk about our activities in 2010 and look forward to 2011. All U3A members are welcome.
£2 per head includes tea/coffee. Book and pay at our desk at monthly meetings.

This will be our last meeting until Wednesday 16th February 2011.

Book visits with Heather Flemmings, monthly U3A meetings, email heatherfl@lineone.net or phone 01702 204943
Pay David Fryer-Kelsey, monthly U3A meetings or post 113 Greensward Lane, Hockley, Essex, SS5 5HS. Cheques made out to U3A Rayleigh please.

Visit to Tilbury Fort September 2010

Our visit to Tilbury Fort started off well but quickly ran into difficulties. We assembled on a cold but bright and dry day at the car park of the old pub, the World’s End. We had not expected it to be open at this relatively early hour but the landlady, seeing us gathered outside, invited us in for coffee. Inside is quite fascinating, quite different from what you might expect in such an industrialised area. Of course it dates back to the time of Samuel Pepys when he was Secretary to the Navy and often visited here. Inside is a stone flagged floor, exposed beams, many notices and pictures painted on the walls depicting past times and a great collection of sailing gear.
I had some difficulty in drawing the members out of the pub and towards the fort but finally we arrived at the Water Gate, a very imposing piece of architecture dating back to the early days of the fort.
I went into the office to inform the staff of the arrival of over 20 visitors and to organise the issue of the audio guides only to be told that there was an electricity failure and none of the buildings could be lit. After the initial panic we decided that the visit could go ahead because much of interest is outside and while we were exploring the electricity might be restored.
So all the visitors crowded into the office to pick up their audio guides and then we gathered outside and began to listen to the commentary, only to find that the first objective was back through the office.
This was the first of several rather confusing instructions which resulted in the whole group moving as one round the fort at first and then gradually dispersing to all points of the compass as various small groups interpreted the instructions differently. (We have suggested that numbers are attached to the points of interest to make it easier to match up with the instructions).
However it did not spoil the occasion as we were able to visit all the interesting features even if not in the intended sequence and also the electricity was restored so we did not miss anything.
The group enjoyed themselves wandering round the battlements with stunning views of the Thames, visiting the Chapel, the gunpowder magazines, the Officer’s quarters and even aiming the guns.
Afterwards we adjourned to the World’s End for lunch, which was very enjoyable and discussed the day’s events.
An excellent day after a shaky start.

Tilbury Fort 17th September 2010

The artillery fort at Tilbury on the Thames estuary protected London’s seaward approach from the 16th century through to World War II. Henry VIII built the first fort here, and Queen Elizabeth famously rallied her army nearby to face the threat of the Armada. The present fort was begun in 1672 under Charles II. It is much the best example of its type in England, with its complete circuit of moats and bastioned outworks still substantially surviving. The fort mounted powerful artillery to command the river as well as landward defences.
Travel round this extensive site in the company of the new Audio Tour.
There is a shop on site and toilet facilities within the fort.
We will meet at the World’s End pub next door – an old Essex weatherboarded pub dating back to the 15th century and rebuilt in 1788.
There is ample parking by the pub and then we can stroll along the waterfront to the entrance to the fort.
Afterwards we can meet at the pub for lunch.
The fort is well signposted from the A13. Take the A1089 towards the docks and at the end keep an eye out for the white, boarded World’s End pub.

Visit to Coggeshall August 2010

Paycocke’s and Grange Barn, Coggeshall

We gathered at the Heritage Centre/Museum but as it is rather a small building the volunteer lady in charge suggested that we split into two groups – one looked round the displays in the Museum while she directed the other half to the nearby Christ Church for tea and cakes. After half an hour the parties swapped over. All very civilised.
The Museum is packed with artefacts but apparently only one third of their items are on display at any one time. It would seem that the residents of Coggeshall care sufficiently about their history to donate many items to the Museum when older relatives pass on.
Coggeshall’s wealth came originally from the wool trade and weaving. After the wool trade declined, there was an attempt to introduce silk and this is shown along with lace making.
There are many everyday items and photos from the past. I found the punishment book from the local school fascinating. It certainly didn’t pay to misbehave. Singing in class while the teacher was absent merited two cuts across the hand with a bamboo stick. Very painful.

At eleven o’clock the two parties gathered in Stoneham Street and we walked down to Paycocke’s passing the small market (just four stalls on this day). The right to hold a market was granted in 1256. The Clock Tower was heightened and refurbished in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee and a new clock purchased from Smith of Derby who still maintain it. Crane House next to the clock is now a very nice teashop run I think by a French lady. It’s a great pleasure on a fine day to take tea out in the garden.

Along West Street stands Paycocke House. It was built in the early 16th century by John Paycocke and was given as a wedding present to his youngest son Thomas. The Paycockes were originally sheep farmers who later became clothiers and were instrumental in building the wool trade which brought prosperity to the town for many years. The wool trade declined and the house was passed from hand to hand until in 1890, in a state of deterioration and having been formed into three cottages, the house was sold for demolition. Fortunately, a local man succeeded in having the sale cancelled, and in 1904 Edward Noel had the house restored by local craftsmen. In 1924 it was presented to the National Trust. The young lady who lives there now is employed by the Trust to look after it and show people around. She gave us a very interesting tour and obviously loves the building and is keen to promote it.

We then adjourned to the various eating and drinking establishments in the town and met up again at the Grange Barn after lunch. This is one of the finest and largest examples of early timber-frame construction in Europe. After many years of neglect it was restored largely thanks to the efforts of a local preservation society and is now in the care of the National Trust. Our guide gave us an interesting talk on the construction and history of this historic building.

This visit only scratched the surface of Coggeshall. We intend to have a guided tour of the town in 2011.

Rayleigh Guided Tour

Wed. 21st July 10.00 a.m.

Starts at the Windmill, gentle walk round town centre pointing out many items of interest including Martyrs Memorial and optional walk round The Mount, followed by break for lunch. Optional visit to Dutch Cottage at 1.45 pm. For the Dutch cottage there are size restraints, so depending on number will go round in groups of 8.
We must limit the number to 20 for the whole trip.
David will be the guide. Meet at the Windmill.

Meet at the Windmill at 10.00am.
Explore the Windmill.
Sensory garden. Contains a sculpture – ‘Mill Past – Time Cast’ by Nicola Burrell. The workmen managed to knock off a corner when installing it.

Brief history of Rayleigh.
Built on line of hills running from Thames at Benfleet to Crouch.
Many stone implements from the Stone Age, 6000 – 3500BC have been found at Hambro Hill and Drovers Hill. Eight pots dating from the Late Iron Age were found, each containing the cremated bones of one person. The pots had been buried in a line and had perhaps originally been beneath a burial mound. They may have been the remains of a family group, who farmed nearby for a considerable period and buried their dead in a single spot.
Near Pound Wood, Daws Heath, there may be the only known Roman villa in South-east Essex. Finds include sherds of Roman pottery dating from the 1st and 2nd c AD, and pieces of flue tile. This indicates a hypocaust or Roman central heating system, so we know they lived in comfort.
In the Middle Ages, Roman bricks and tiles were used in the building of the castle and church, Many in the church can still be seen today on the outside of the chancel and the tower.
Romans left a hoard of over 200 coins at White House Farm. When they were found they were sold to local people, so some may have been handed down to people who still live in the area.
The Saxons were here. The name Essex comes from East Saxons. At one time their territory extended to the west of London. Their early settlements were to the east around Barling and Wakering and a cemetery at Prittlewell. Later they made clearings, ‘Leas’ in the woods to the west. Rayleigh, Hadleigh, Hockley, Thundersley.
They organised the country by setting up villages, parishes and hundreds.
A Saxon cemetery was found at Park school, Rawreth Lane.
Rayleigh High Street is typically Saxon, linear, buildings each side, church at one end.
The Normans arrived in 1066 but the first person we know about with a direct connection to Rayleigh was Robert Fitzwimarc who had already been granted substantial landholdings and important posts in the government of Edward the Confessor. He was the only pre-Norman landholder in Essex to keep his landholdings after the Conquest.
Sweyne, son of Robert Fitzwimarc, built Rayleigh castle in 1070. It was added to over the years but when Hadleigh castle was built it went into decline and finally in 1394, Richard ll gave permission to the inhabitants of Rayleigh for stone quarrying of the foundations of the old castle.
There was a Royal park, used for hunting. It was sited to the east of the village in Eastwood, extending at least as far as Progress Road. Later it was used mostly for timber production and pasture. Henry VIII took dear from the park to replenish the stock at Greenwich Park. In 1544 it was sold.
The village was granted a weekly market in 1181 and an annual fair in 1227.
Although Rochford was the town at the centre of the Rochford Hundred, Rayleigh was important in its own right. It was the centre for the administration of justice for hundreds of years until the 15th century and before Chelmsford gained more importance.
However by the 18th century it was much less important and in 1830 it had only 230 dwellings.
It was the coming of the railway in 1889 which led to the revival and great growth of Rayleigh and gave us the town we see today.


Walk to area in front of Mill Hall.
Castle extended as far as Bellingham Lane. A deep ditch ran through their gardens.
Beacon first lit in 1988 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Spanish Armada.
Star of David. In 2005 a memorial to the victims of persecution was erected.

The Cosy Theatre showed silent films from 1925 and later talkies. The Regal Cinema took its place and showed popular films until demolished in 1972. It gave its name to “Homeregal House” which stands on the site.
Women’s Institute Hall. The original building was the Peculiar People’s Chapel. The Peculiar People were founded in 1837 by James Banyard of Rochford. It took its name from a Biblical quotation meaning that its members had been specifically chosen. However everyone took it to mean that they behaved in a peculiar way. I was told that they jumped over chairs during their services. They believed in divine healing and refused to use doctors. However when John Banyard’s son fell ill, he called the doctor. This led to him being forced out of the movement. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1998 and rebuilt in 2000.

Walk up Bellingham Lane to London Hill.
Three 17th-century cottages at top of London Hill known as Mount Pleasant.
London Hill was the main route to and from London and Chelmsford until Crown Hill was built. The coaches came up the hill into the High Street where they stopped for the passengers and perhaps a change of horses. Then they continued along the Hockley road and Ironwell Lane to Rochford and finally to the Blue Boar at Prittlewell.

1-5 Church Street known as Wern Cottages. These are at least 17th-century.

Holy Trinity church. It had a Norman predecessor and it is thought that there was an even earlier small wooden church. Much of the present church was built between 1380 and 1420. The tower is 70 feet high and carries eight bells. The red-brick porch was added in Tudor times. It has been used as a school.

The area in front of the church of Holy Trinity was formerly built up. Patmore’s bakery was there and the first telephone exchange. A call took precedence over a customer at the counter. It was demolished in the 1930’s for road widening and gave us today’s excellent view of the church from the High Street. Part of the land was retained as a small garden. This was originally the area of correction. With Manor Courts and three Judges sitting at Assize Courts, miscreants were tried, punished and ridiculed at the whipping post, pillory, stocks and cage – an open prison, situated near this spot.
At the bottom of London Hill, by the junction with Down Hall Road, stood until 1940 the Rayleigh Prison, opposite Gallows Mead and Hangman’s Field. Now the site of the Traveller’s Joy pub.

There was another court in Rayleigh – the Lawless or Whispering Court. The business of the court was to collect rents from several local farms. It met annually by starlight in Kingley Wood near to the Weir and proceedings were carried out in whispers and written down with a piece of charcoal. Later it was transferred to ‘King’s Hill’ at Rochford. In the 1880s there were at least 14 properties paying rent at the Lawless Court. It became increasingly riotous with young men rampaging through the town carrying flaming torches and crowing like cockerels until the early hours. It was finally closed down in 1892.

The building in front of the Holy Trinity was built as the National School. The Baptist church also built a school known as the British School at the other end of the High Street. When the new Council school opened in Love Lane the other schools moved there. The National School became the Parish Rooms until the new Parish Hall was built behind the church in 1976. Vandals damaged it by fire in 1980. It was then converted to a restaurant.
By the early 1880s the churchyard had become full and a new cemetery was opened in Hockley Road.

“Ruffles” at 50 Hockley Road was the site of a windmill, one of five in Rayleigh. Benjamin Ruffles lived there, worked in the mill and married the owner’s daughter. He later bought the Tower Mill.

Barringtons. The Manor House, in which John de Barenton lived, stood on this site until 1679. Sir John was a keeper of the King’s park of Rayleigh. He has a brass plate in the church.
The present building facade was re-built in 1844. The building was bought by Rayleigh Urban District Council in 1952 for use as their headquarters. They then acquired high quality boardroom furniture from St John’s Hospital in Halifax. Unfortunately it was too large for the existing building so they built an extension. I expect we all know someone who has bought furniture which is too large but not many people can build an extension. I’ve been to public meetings there and it is very grand. In 1974 Rochford and Rayleigh were amalgamated as Rochford District Council. The new council decided to move the offices to Rochford and sell off Barringtons. The Council Chamber was retained.
Barrington’s Cottages and market. The cottages date from 18th century and are on the site of dwellings used by forest workers who, until c1600 maintained Rayleigh Park. Now Eskimowear.
The market was originally in the wide High Street or perhaps between Bellingham Lane and High Street which may have been infilled later.

Half Moon. Thought to date from the 15th century. Convenient for stage coach passengers being near to London Hill. Also for church goers.
9 High Street. La Romantica. 17thc.
11 High Street. Squire’s teashop. 16thc. In 1900 was Mr Ratty Cook’s shoe shop.
Kingsleigh House. Built in the 1790s and stands on the site of an old coaching inn known as the Bull. Bull baiting took place in the garden behind.
Golden Lion hotel was one of the principal inns in the town but decayed when Crown Hill opened. Replaced by Fine Fare supermarket, car showroom, then Crocs and now Pink Toothbrush.
22 High Street. Bloomfield’s Drapery store was here. A small room held Barclay and Company Bank (no connection to Barclays of the present day). It was open for two hours, twice a week.
36 High Street. Rayleigh post office was here in a small room in a boarded cottage. Mail was collected from South Benfleet station. The Rev Curnock’s daughter smashed a window in demanding votes for women.
White Horse. Frontage dates from 19th c. Has an archway leading to the back, possibly for coaches.
Look out for Ernie Lane leading from High Street to Webster’s Way. Named after Rayleigh historian.

The pump is a reminder of the days when water was drawn from wells and ditches. Mains water started to come in from 1905.
Martyr’s memorial. Two Protestants were burnt in the High Street for their religious beliefs. This took place in 1555 in the reign of Catholic Queen Mary. Thomas Causton from Thundersley and Thomas Higbed of Horndon-on-the-hill, were tried and found guilty. Causton was burnt at Rayleigh and Higbed at Horndon. In June, John Ardeley of Great Wigborough was burnt at Rayleigh. A fellow villager, John Simson was burnt at Rochford. They were probably brought here as an example to the other Protestants in the Rochford Hundred.
In 1908 a memorial was erected to Causton and Ardeley plus two other local men – Robert Drakes of Thundersley and William Tyms of Hockley – who were burnt at Smithfield.
When the memorial was erected the remains of a burnt stake were found.
The horse trough and drinking fountain are 19th century. One of the few left in Essex. The Memorial, trough and fountain are Grade ll listed.

91 High Street. Formerly Sansom’s outfitters, also North Thames Gas Board offices. The right hand end dates back to the 14th century, making it the oldest known surviving secular building in Rayleigh. The Georgian style bowed shop windows date from the 1930s.
Spread Eagle. Another old inn.

The police had operated from rented premises or their own homes until they were located at the Weir. This was unpopular with the residents because it was so remote and in 1940 they moved back to the High Street. At one time the police station was on the corner of Eastwood Road at Dollmartons. The current station is very large because it was built as a regional station.
It and the parade of shops next to it replaced a row of boarded cottages with long front gardens which were used as shops and offices. Cramphorn’s had a shop there as did the electricity company.
The library opposite was built in 1965. Previously it had used the same site and was housed in Fields Billiards Hall, a traditional boarded property.
110 High Street. Here stood the Old Anchor Brewery and Maltings built in 1798. Water was pumped from the brickfield pond in Castle Road. Production ceased in 1922 when a body was found floating in the pond.
I can remember going with my mother to buy groceries in what I think was the International Stores. It was a very tall room with a gallery going round above our heads. The staff served you at the counter. No trolleys in those days.
Town sign erected in 1989 opposite Crown Hill.

Crown Hill. The railway across Essex was built in 1839. Travellers from London could take the train to Brentwood and continue to SE Essex by road, much faster. Coaches began to time their journeys to meet trains. I wish our buses did the same.
In 1856 the London Tilbury and Southend line opened. A twice daily coach between the Crown inn and South Benfleet was laid on.
The line from Shenfield through Rayleigh to Southend opened in 1889. Soon 30 people were working on the railway at Rayleigh. Many market gardening, orchard and nurseries grew up to feed the London market. Trippers increased to enjoy the views and others settled permanently. Many road transport people lost their jobs – blacksmiths, horse dealers, carriers etc.
Up to now, the main entry into Rayleigh from London was via London Hill. With the station at the foot of Crown Hill, there was a more direct route. Crown Hill was a dirt track so it needed making up and widening. At the top of the hill, the Crown inn benefited enormously. It was renamed the Crown and Railway and quickly became the leading hotel. The Golden Lion, which for a long time had been the leader, was now at the wrong end of the High Street. It lasted just another 40 years.
Landowners benefited from the railway – they could sell their land for market gardens or for new housing.
With the development of commuting, large tracts of land in Eastwood and elsewhere were built up.
This took some time and was delayed by the wars. When I lived in Wickford Road in the 50s, many of the side roads had houses but the roads were unmade. The fields opposite our house had drains laid but no houses because building stopped in 1939. Pearsons Farm kept cows in the fields behind our house and delivered milk in a horse and trap.

A traditional red telephone box has been preserved outside the Crown. Next to it stands an original King George VI postbox, transferred from Royal Mail in 1994 in return for a single red rose.
Edward Francis lived at 78-84 High Street, now Lloyds TSB. He was an enthusiastic amateur archaeologist who purchased the Mount in 1909 to prevent its loss to development and carried out some excavations at the site. Some antiquarians thought that it was a Stone Age earthwork. Its modern-day name, ‘Rayleigh Mount’, survives as a reminder of this confusion. Later he donated the Mount to the National Trust.

The Sadler’s restaurant stood in this area.
Hinksmans garage was destroyed by fire in the late 1960s.
Next door stood the Chequers public house with an archway leading to a row of cottages and a forge.

In the 1960s many of the old, historic buildings in the town centre were swept away. A Rayleigh Civic Society was formed in 1963. It had several battles to preserve old buildings and encourage good building and planning standards. A most controversial development was the application to demolish H. Mann and Sons, an ancient building occupying a prominent site. The decision to refuse demolition was a landmark.

The millennium clock at Mann’s Corner was unveiled in 1999. It’s still not working.

That concludes the tour of the High Street. I hope you found it interesting.
We can now go to the Castle. There are some steps to climb.



Rayleigh Castle or Mount.
Robert Fitzwimarc was landowner of the Honor of Rayleigh about the time of the Conquest. He was related to both William the Conqueror and Edward the Confessor. Edward gave him lands and important posts and William did not confiscate them after Hastings. Robert was the only pre-Norman landholder in Essex to keep his landholdings after the Conquest.
Sweyne, son of Robert, built Rayleigh castle in 1070. It started as a mound or motte, probably with a wooden tower on top, looking out over the Crouch valley. A ditch on the eastern side provided the earth to raise the mound. In the early 12th century the castle’s defences were extended by the digging of a ditch around land to the east of the mound, creating a flat, palisaded area for living quarters for the soldiers. This flat area was known as the bailey. An outer bailey extended the castle to Bellingham Lane.

Hubert de Burgh was given land including Rayleigh and Hadleigh. He built Hadleigh castle c.1230.
Queen Eleanor established a horse-breeding centre at Rayleigh castle. It was repaired in 1282. After that it continued to decline. In 1394 the people of Rayleigh were given permission to quarry the foundations.
Excavation and research into documents by Edward Francis in 1909. He gave castle to National Trust in 1923.
Now heavily overgrown and more wildlife site than heritage. Nevertheless the castle brought the town into being.

The Dutch Cottage opens at 1.45 so those of you intending to visit may like to lunch or shop.


Here is an interesting collection of photos and descriptions of old Rayleigh:-
http://www.rayleighbusiness.co.uk/history.asp

Directions for Coggeshall visit.

£4.50 Please pay at U3A meeting on Friday 02nd July as there is no meeting in August.
As you will see from the attached map you go into Stoneham Street and then look out for a big red sign saying Library and take turning on left there which also says Stoneham Street and park the car.

Museum and Village hall adjoin the car park, toilet facilities are excellent in the village hall and we will meet at the Museum at 10.00am. We will have about 45 min. there and walk down to Paycocks for 11.00am. No toilets at Paycocks, although assured if we are really desperate the pub next door will let us use their facilities.

We will be split into two groups. One half, the guide will take round the house while the other members look round and enjoy the garden, and then vice versa.

Free time to enjoy lunch at one of the many hostelries and meet at the Grange Barn at 2.00p.m. which is approx 10 minutes walk uphill from Paycocks, alternatively park in their car park. We will also have a guide.

If you have not already done so can you let me know if you are National Trust members in which case it is free.

It’s a lovely place and hope for the all important good weather.

I would just mention Paycocks need to raise much needed funds, so if you have any books to donate, it would be appreciated, also you can buy books there.

Itinerary

LOCAL HISTORY GROUP ITINERARY 2010 as at 01st July 2010

Get all the latest details of the group on our blog http://lhgu3arayleigh.blogspot.com

Wed 21st July 10.00am Rayleigh Guided tour.
Starts at the Windmill, gentle walk round town centre pointing out many items of interest including Martyrs Memorial and optional walk round the Mount, followed by break for lunch.
Optional visit to Dutch Cottage at 1.45 pm.
David will be the guide. Max 20 people, others on reserve list. FULLY BOOKED
Meet at the Windmill.

Thu 26th Aug 10.00am Coggeshall, Heritage Centre, Paycocke’s and Grange Barn.
10.00am Heritage Centre/Museum
11.00 Paycocke’s
12.00 Explore town under your own steam. Market on Thursday mornings
14.00 Grange Barn (optional)
Please pay at U3A meeting on Friday 02nd July as there is no meeting in August.
With its unusually intricate panelling and woodcarving, Paycocke's shows the wealth of the area generated by the 15th- and 16th-century wool trade. Examine the examples of the famous Coggeshall lace displayed in the house and explore the peaceful cottage garden.
With a beautiful cathedral-like interior, majestic Coggeshall Grange Barn was originally part of a Cistercian monastery and is one of the oldest surviving timber-framed buildings in Europe. After years of agricultural use, the barn fell into disrepair but was saved from demolition and lovingly restored in the 1980s.
Heritage Centre shows a thousand years history of Coggeshall. Includes a large display of old photographs, a working wool weaving loom and a display of Coggeshall lace. They would appreciate a donation of £1.
Meet at Heritage Centre/Museum which can be found off Stoneham Street. C06 1UH
£4.50 combined ticket including guide. National Trust Members have free entry so when you put your name on the list mention you are NT! Max 30, others on reserve list.
Toilet facilities at Grange Barn. C06 1RE
5½ miles east of Braintree. Signposted off A120.

Fri 17th Sept 10.30am Tilbury Fort
The artillery fort at Tilbury on the Thames estuary protected London's seaward approach from the 16th century through to World War II. Henry VIII built the first fort here, and Queen Elizabeth famously rallied her army nearby to face the threat of the Armada. The present fort was begun in 1672 under Charles II: it is much the best example of its type in England, with its complete circuit of moats and bastioned outworks still substantially surviving. The fort mounted powerful artillery to command the river, as well as landward defences.
Travel round this extensive site in the company of the new Audio Tour.
Shop. Refreshments: snacks available and picnics welcome in grounds. Toilet facilities within fort.

£2 per head Meet at main gate by river
Located ½ mile east of Tilbury off A126 near the Port of Tilbury. RM18 7NR

Mon 15th Nov 10am till Noon Indoor Meeting in association with Social History Group
At Trinity Church In Cloister Hall
Review our activities and visits in 2010 and look forward to a full programme in 2011.
£2 per head includes tea/coffee


Book visits with Heather Flemmings, monthly U3A meetings, email heatherfl@lineone.net or phone 01702 204943
Pay David Fryer-Kelsey, monthly U3A meetings or post 113 Greensward Lane, Hockley, Essex, SS5 5HS. Cheques made out to U3A Rayleigh please.

Hedingham Castle

Wednesday 09th June 2010
Hedingham Castle and Grounds

The Norman keep is a striking building, over 110 feet high and the walls immensely strong, being over 12 feet thick. Unlike most castles, it is completely faced with ashlar stone which gives it a smooth finish and has weathered to a warm, pinkish colour over the centuries since it was built in about 1140.
Built by Aubrey de Vere II, Lord Great Chamberlain of England, it remains an enduring monument to the de Veres, Earls of Oxford, who ruled this part of the country like monarchs of their own land.
Our guide, Jane, was very knowledgeable about the history of the family and the building and starting outside the main door she gave a very interesting tour, taking in the Garrison floor, which now houses the Gift Shop and Tea Room, the wide spiral staircase leading to the Banqueting Hall, the Minstrels Gallery and the Dormitory Floor.
The Banqueting Hall is striking with a great stone arch 28 feet wide and 20 feet high.
This is where the taxes from the whole area were collected each year before being transferred to the Treasury at Winchester.
We then adjourned to the Tea Room for refreshment before individually exploring the Keep and the grounds with their lakes and flower beds.
There is also a large Mansion House which is not open to the public but is hired out for functions.
Many of us then took advantage of the fine weather and walked into the village for lunch and to explore the charming backstreets, lined with mediaeval houses and a fine church.

Unfortunately Mary Leverett had a fall in the Minstrel’s Gallery and was in great pain. An ambulance was called and with some difficulty she was carried down the spiral staircase. Heather accompanied her to Colchester hospital, where she was diagnosed with a femur broken near the hip. She was to be operated on this Thursday 10th June. We would like to send our sympathy and best wishes to her – she is very determined for her age, not many of us could do the things she does at her age. Get well soon, Mary.

Hedingham Castle and Gardens

Wednesday 09th June 2010 10.30a.m
Our next trip will be to Hedingham Castle and Gardens.

Hedingham Castle's Norman keep, 110 feet high, was built c.1140 by Aubrey de Vere and is still owned by one of his descendants, The Honourable Thomas Lindsay and his wife Virginia. There are four floors to explore, including a magnificent Banqueting Hall spanned by a remarkable 28 foot arch, one of the largest Norman arches in England. A good view of this splendid room can be obtained from the Minstrels' Gallery, built within the thickness of the 12 foot walls.
The castle and the Queen Anne house (private) are surrounded by well-kept grounds and woods.
There are delightful walks around the lake and through the shady woodland under the steep ramparts of the castle defences.
A guided tour lasts approximately l hour.
Tea room, shop, picnic tables near car park, toilet facilities.
Tea room open from 9.30a.m

£7 per head Max 50, others on reserve list.
Hedingham Castle is situated in the village of Castle Hedingham, half a mile from the A1017 between Cambridge and Colchester. C09 3DJ

Cressing Temple

Friday 21st May 2010
Cressing Temple

The Medieval Manor of the Knights Templar.
The Knights Templar was a society of warrior monks set up to protect pilgrims to the Holy Land.
When the Holy Land was lost to the Muslims, they lost their purpose but continued to administer the lands and property in Europe they had accumulated over the ages. Money lending was forbidden to Christians so was usually left to the Jews but the Templars developed a method of advancing money and achieved great wealth. This caused envy and as they did not behave like monks (to drink like a Templar was a popular saying) the French king was able to disband them and executed many of them.
Cressing Temple was granted to them by Queen Matilda in 1137. They farmed its 2000 acres until 1312 when their lands passed to the Knights Hospitaller.
We had an excellent guide in Barry Hillman Crouch, an archaeologist who has worked there for many years. The sun shone and it is a very relaxing place, beautiful old buildings set in the best Essex countryside.
We went first into the Granary and Court Hall built in 1623. Set in the floor was an even older fireplace made up of tiles set on edge. Upstairs was a large open room which at one time was used as a Court. The whole building, being made of wood, was leaning at a fair angle.
The Tudor Walled Garden once adjoined a Tudor Great House but this was demolished after the Civil War. Today the Garden is a haven of peace with water trickling through it and a high viewing platform. A small building was constructed by modern craftsmen using only axes to demonstrate the methods used in the great barns.
Just outside the garden is the stone lined well, perfectly preserved to this day and used for drinking water on the estate until a few years ago.
The most imposing buildings on the site are of course the two great barns constructed for the Templars and used down to the present day. The Wheat Barn contains an exhibition showing the incredible skills needed to build the barns.
We finished a very enjoyable day with tea in the nice visitor centre.

Waltham Abbey - Royal Gunpowder Mills

Wednesday 14th April 2010

We left home early because we wanted to be in the car park when the others arrived. Unfortunately on the way there we followed a sign to the Gunpowder Park which turned out to be another place altogether. So we arrived second to Laurie and Elisabeth Denney.
A security guard let us into the car park and we waited there while the other U3A members trickled in. And very cold it was too with a chill wind.
The manager of the Mills turned up on time and let us in for a nice hot cup of tea or coffee and biscuits – very welcome.

The whole site has been turned over to volunteers who are preserving and renovating as and when funds are available.
We split into two groups, one went for a tour of the grounds on the land train while the other visited the museum and saw a video about the Mills.

The grounds are long and narrow and lie between the Old River Lea and the later Navigation. Paved roads run the length of the grounds but there are also several canals – some in water, some now dry. We saw the remains of one of the wooden boats used for carrying dangerous materials about the site.
There is also a narrow gauge railway which is being restored by the volunteers.
There are many fine buildings but some are in a poor state of repair. They are well scattered over the site for safety reasons.
Plenty of grass, scrub and trees with plenty of wildlife. Deer came right up to the land train to be fed. The trees are mostly alder and crack willow. Apparently it is called crack willow because it has a tendency to go Crack and fall on your head and in fact we saw lots of fallen trees.

As time went by other explosives were discovered and put into production.
We saw a tall grassy mound where they used to make nitro-glycerine by mixing two acids. Nitro is very unstable and was useless until Alfred Nobel invented a process which turned it into a solid which he called dynamite. Making the nitro was boring with the possibility of unwelcome excitement. If the temperature went too high it exploded so the worker in charge had to manage the valves etc all day and all night and if he fell asleep he wouldn’t wake up again. To keep him awake the management supplied him with a one-legged stool so when he fell asleep he fell over and woke up. Who needs digital technology?
The mound was surrounded by ponds so the chemicals could be run off into the water if something went wrong. Also the operator could jump in the water if he got sprayed with acid.
In fact quite a bit of nitro would find its way into the ponds so at regular intervals they were cleaned out by throwing in a stick of explosives to blow up all the pollution.

The tour continued round the site showing the laboratory, rolling mills etc.
We saw Newton’s Pool, 12 metres deep where underwater explosives were tested including the explosives used in the Dambusters bouncing bomb, the Press House where the gunpowder was pressed to improve its explosive qualities, powered by a waterwheel which is now listed and a large collection of rockets.
Then we returned to the start point and changed places with the other half of the party.
We were then able to walk to various exhibits.
The 1940’s exhibition brought back memories with an old shop, domestic kitchen, Anderson shelter.
The volunteer in charge of the rocket house was an enthusiast and was ready to talk all day about his collection which showed the development of rocket motors and propellants from Congreve’s gunpowder rocket of the early 19th century through to the guided missiles used in the cold war and the Falklands war.
Among the exhibits is the rocket engine from a Nazi V2 which broke up in mid air over Waltham Abbey in 1945.
We nearly lost Laurie at the rocket exhibition but he finally managed to tear himself away.
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There is a fine museum with lots of artefacts and plenty of photos of the works through the years. In operation for over 300 years, its superior production methods and high quality results earned it an international reputation.
It was a great source of employment for the Waltham Abbey area for many generations and at its height during WW1 over 5,000 local people were employed by the Mills.
But with the danger of the Luftwaffe bombing it, production had to be moved further west and north out of range. The site went over to research and became a centre for rockets.
Finally it closed in 1991.

On the way out there is a shop with a fine collection of books, gifts, preserves and confectionery.

We only scratched the surface of such a large exhibition. I think some of our members will be making a return visit in warmer weather and could easily spend a day exploring the history and the wildlife and even picnic in the grounds.




Highly charged words...

A light hearted catalogue of phrases and sayings in common use today, which originated from gunpowder production and military use.

STICK TO YOUR GUNS – maintain your position don’t change your mind
Cannons were both valuable and important on the battlefield. If enemy soldiers attacked the cannon, the gun crew could switch from using single cannon balls to grapeshot. These were bags of small musket balls that would burst as they left the open end, or muzzle, of the cannon barrel. This deadly spray of small musket balls could cause terrible destruction on the attackers if held to the last possible moment. The deadly blast could stop the attack altogether or stun the attackers allowing the crew to escape to safety.

FLASH IN THE PAN – failure after a showy start
The spark caused by the flint hitting the frizzen lights a small amount of gunpowder in a small pan. This flame then goes through a small hole, or vent, in the barrel and ignites the main charge of powder. Sometimes the hole becomes blocked and the promising fizz and flame of the pan powder does not result in the gun being fired. At a crucial point in a battle this could have proved fatal!

A LOOSE CANNON – someone who is out of control
Early warships used large heavy cannons that needed to be secured in place by ropes and blocks when not in use. The pitch of the sea could cause a loose cannon to roll around crushing and killing men in the cramped conditions on a ship’s gun deck.

A LOAD OF JUNK - unwanted items or rubbish
Junk was a navel term for old rope that was collected and used to make wads to put into the barrels of cannons after gunpowder charge and cannon ball. This helped to prevent the cannon ball from moving up and down the barrel while the ship rolled.

OVER A BARREL – in a helpless situation
In the navy this could mean being tied over a cannon barrel and flogged as a punishment.

SON OF A GUN – a bit of a rogue
On board early warships the men were often not allowed to go ashore at all, for fear of desertion. The men slept, ate and worked around the large guns on the gun deck. Sometimes a few women were allowed to live on board ship too. If any children were born on the ship, they were often recorded as “Son of a Gun”.

BRASS MONKEYS – very cold weather
Early ships sometimes used brass racks to hold cannon balls. In extremely cold weather these racks could contract enough to release the cannon balls, allowing them to roll around while the ship pitched.

POWDER MONKEY – agile young person
The danger of fire and explosion on a wooden warship was great. The magazine room was designed to protect the gunpowder from a stray spark that could destroy the whole ship. Each gun crew had a powder charge carrier, usually a young boy, who had to collect the gunpowder for them. To do this he had to: run to the magazine, pick up the gunpowder charge in a canvas bag, place it in his wooden or metal charge holder and close its lid, then run back to the gun and deliver the charge to the gun loader. The sight of a small boy rushing through, up and over the various obstacles on the gun deck, earned him the nickname of powder monkey, from his agility and speed.

HANG FIRE – delay an action until later
A hang fire is when a gunpowder weapons fails to fire on the first attempt. This can be caused by the initial spark from the flint failing to light the pan powder or by the ignited pan powder failing to light the main charge in the barrel. Sometimes a small ember in the pan can suddenly be fanned back to life and fire the main charge much to the shooter’s surprise and potential danger!.

Kelvedon Hatch (Secret Nuclear Bunker)

Friday 19th March 2010

An amazing labyrinth of rooms buried deep under a hillside in rural Essex.

A muddy track leads to a very ordinary looking bungalow which conceals the entrance to the complex. Pausing only to pick up our audio wands we started down a long corridor designed to protect from blast and also make it easy to defend against civilians i.e. us, if we had tried to gain entrance when the five minute warning sounded.

It was originally built for the RAF to control our reaction to a nuclear attack but was then converted to act as Regional Government HQ.

Up to 600 personnel, possibly including the Prime Minister would have been able to live here for up to two weeks, safe from nuclear fallout, organising the survival of anyone on the surface and even broadcasting to them.

It had its own water supply and electricity generators but would have been dreadfully crowded with personnel having to use the beds on a shift basis. Probably rather smelly after two weeks.

The small hospital had body bags and coffins stacked ready for casualties.

Of course if it suffered major damage, they would have been buried alive and as no one on the surface knew about them, there would have been no rescue.

A very interesting visit and a reflection on the insanity of nuclear war.

Old Leigh slide show

Friday 19th February 2010

Old Leigh slide show

To kick off the New Year we held a meeting in the Cloister Hall at Holy Trinity church in Rayleigh.

The proposed itinerary for 2010 was presented and there was a general discussion.

Then Clare Harvey gave a slide show together with a narrative of the history and legends of Old Leigh which we found quite fascinating.

Her family have a long history in Leigh and she was able to give us many anecdotes about the happenings and characters of the little fishing village, illustrated with many slides.

Itinerary for 2010

LOCAL HISTORY GROUP
ITINERARY 2010 as at 12 Mar 2010



Wed 14th Apr 10.30am Waltham Abbey/Royal Gun Powder Mills
Kept secret for over 300 years, the fascinating stories of what went on behind closed doors is still unfolding at the Royal Gunpowder Mills.

£6 plus £2 for land train, includes tea/coffee on arrival

Fri 2lst May 10.30am Cressing Temple (Medieval Manor of the Knights Templar)
Two vast barns, built in the early 1200’s, are masterpieces of carpentry. Also farm buildings, a Templar well and a Tudor walled garden.

£6 per head Max 35, others on reserve list.


Wed 9th June 10.30am Hedingham Castle and Gardens.
Hedingham Castle's Norman keep, 110 feet high, was built c.1140. There are four floors to explore, including a magnificent Banqueting Hall spanned by a remarkable 28 foot arch, one of the largest Norman arches in England.

£7 per head Max 50, others on reserve list.

Wed 21st July 10.00am Rayleigh Guided tour.
Starts at the Windmill, gentle walk round town centre pointing out many items of interest including Martyrs Memorial and optional walk round the Mount, followed by break for lunch.
Optional visit to Dutch Cottage at 1.45 pm.
Free, Max 20 people, others on reserve list. FULLY BOOKED

Thu 26th Aug 10.00am Coggeshall, Heritage Centre, Paycocke’s and Grange Barn.
10.00am Heritage Centre/Museum
11.00 Paycocke’s
12.00 Explore town under your own steam. Market on Thursday mornings
14.00 Grange Barn (optional)
£4.50 combined ticket including guide. National Trust Members have free entry so when you put your name on the list mention you are NT! FULLY BOOKED


Fri 17th Sept 10.30am Tilbury Fort
The artillery fort at Tilbury on the Thames estuary protected London's seaward approach from the 16th century through to World War II. Travel round this extensive site in the company of the new Audio Tour.

£2 per head

Mon 15th Nov 10am till Noon Indoor Meeting in association with Social History Group
In Cloister Hall
£2 per head includes tea/coffee


Book visits with Heather Flemmings, monthly U3A meetings, email heatherfl@lineone.net or phone 01702 204943
Pay David Fryer-Kelsey, monthly U3A meetings or post 113 Greensward Lane, Hockley, Essex, SS5 5HS. Cheques made out to U3A Rayleigh please.