Rayleigh Guided Tour

Wed. 21st July 10.00 a.m.

Starts at the Windmill, gentle walk round town centre pointing out many items of interest including Martyrs Memorial and optional walk round The Mount, followed by break for lunch. Optional visit to Dutch Cottage at 1.45 pm. For the Dutch cottage there are size restraints, so depending on number will go round in groups of 8.
We must limit the number to 20 for the whole trip.
David will be the guide. Meet at the Windmill.

Meet at the Windmill at 10.00am.
Explore the Windmill.
Sensory garden. Contains a sculpture – ‘Mill Past – Time Cast’ by Nicola Burrell. The workmen managed to knock off a corner when installing it.

Brief history of Rayleigh.
Built on line of hills running from Thames at Benfleet to Crouch.
Many stone implements from the Stone Age, 6000 – 3500BC have been found at Hambro Hill and Drovers Hill. Eight pots dating from the Late Iron Age were found, each containing the cremated bones of one person. The pots had been buried in a line and had perhaps originally been beneath a burial mound. They may have been the remains of a family group, who farmed nearby for a considerable period and buried their dead in a single spot.
Near Pound Wood, Daws Heath, there may be the only known Roman villa in South-east Essex. Finds include sherds of Roman pottery dating from the 1st and 2nd c AD, and pieces of flue tile. This indicates a hypocaust or Roman central heating system, so we know they lived in comfort.
In the Middle Ages, Roman bricks and tiles were used in the building of the castle and church, Many in the church can still be seen today on the outside of the chancel and the tower.
Romans left a hoard of over 200 coins at White House Farm. When they were found they were sold to local people, so some may have been handed down to people who still live in the area.
The Saxons were here. The name Essex comes from East Saxons. At one time their territory extended to the west of London. Their early settlements were to the east around Barling and Wakering and a cemetery at Prittlewell. Later they made clearings, ‘Leas’ in the woods to the west. Rayleigh, Hadleigh, Hockley, Thundersley.
They organised the country by setting up villages, parishes and hundreds.
A Saxon cemetery was found at Park school, Rawreth Lane.
Rayleigh High Street is typically Saxon, linear, buildings each side, church at one end.
The Normans arrived in 1066 but the first person we know about with a direct connection to Rayleigh was Robert Fitzwimarc who had already been granted substantial landholdings and important posts in the government of Edward the Confessor. He was the only pre-Norman landholder in Essex to keep his landholdings after the Conquest.
Sweyne, son of Robert Fitzwimarc, built Rayleigh castle in 1070. It was added to over the years but when Hadleigh castle was built it went into decline and finally in 1394, Richard ll gave permission to the inhabitants of Rayleigh for stone quarrying of the foundations of the old castle.
There was a Royal park, used for hunting. It was sited to the east of the village in Eastwood, extending at least as far as Progress Road. Later it was used mostly for timber production and pasture. Henry VIII took dear from the park to replenish the stock at Greenwich Park. In 1544 it was sold.
The village was granted a weekly market in 1181 and an annual fair in 1227.
Although Rochford was the town at the centre of the Rochford Hundred, Rayleigh was important in its own right. It was the centre for the administration of justice for hundreds of years until the 15th century and before Chelmsford gained more importance.
However by the 18th century it was much less important and in 1830 it had only 230 dwellings.
It was the coming of the railway in 1889 which led to the revival and great growth of Rayleigh and gave us the town we see today.


Walk to area in front of Mill Hall.
Castle extended as far as Bellingham Lane. A deep ditch ran through their gardens.
Beacon first lit in 1988 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Spanish Armada.
Star of David. In 2005 a memorial to the victims of persecution was erected.

The Cosy Theatre showed silent films from 1925 and later talkies. The Regal Cinema took its place and showed popular films until demolished in 1972. It gave its name to “Homeregal House” which stands on the site.
Women’s Institute Hall. The original building was the Peculiar People’s Chapel. The Peculiar People were founded in 1837 by James Banyard of Rochford. It took its name from a Biblical quotation meaning that its members had been specifically chosen. However everyone took it to mean that they behaved in a peculiar way. I was told that they jumped over chairs during their services. They believed in divine healing and refused to use doctors. However when John Banyard’s son fell ill, he called the doctor. This led to him being forced out of the movement. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1998 and rebuilt in 2000.

Walk up Bellingham Lane to London Hill.
Three 17th-century cottages at top of London Hill known as Mount Pleasant.
London Hill was the main route to and from London and Chelmsford until Crown Hill was built. The coaches came up the hill into the High Street where they stopped for the passengers and perhaps a change of horses. Then they continued along the Hockley road and Ironwell Lane to Rochford and finally to the Blue Boar at Prittlewell.

1-5 Church Street known as Wern Cottages. These are at least 17th-century.

Holy Trinity church. It had a Norman predecessor and it is thought that there was an even earlier small wooden church. Much of the present church was built between 1380 and 1420. The tower is 70 feet high and carries eight bells. The red-brick porch was added in Tudor times. It has been used as a school.

The area in front of the church of Holy Trinity was formerly built up. Patmore’s bakery was there and the first telephone exchange. A call took precedence over a customer at the counter. It was demolished in the 1930’s for road widening and gave us today’s excellent view of the church from the High Street. Part of the land was retained as a small garden. This was originally the area of correction. With Manor Courts and three Judges sitting at Assize Courts, miscreants were tried, punished and ridiculed at the whipping post, pillory, stocks and cage – an open prison, situated near this spot.
At the bottom of London Hill, by the junction with Down Hall Road, stood until 1940 the Rayleigh Prison, opposite Gallows Mead and Hangman’s Field. Now the site of the Traveller’s Joy pub.

There was another court in Rayleigh – the Lawless or Whispering Court. The business of the court was to collect rents from several local farms. It met annually by starlight in Kingley Wood near to the Weir and proceedings were carried out in whispers and written down with a piece of charcoal. Later it was transferred to ‘King’s Hill’ at Rochford. In the 1880s there were at least 14 properties paying rent at the Lawless Court. It became increasingly riotous with young men rampaging through the town carrying flaming torches and crowing like cockerels until the early hours. It was finally closed down in 1892.

The building in front of the Holy Trinity was built as the National School. The Baptist church also built a school known as the British School at the other end of the High Street. When the new Council school opened in Love Lane the other schools moved there. The National School became the Parish Rooms until the new Parish Hall was built behind the church in 1976. Vandals damaged it by fire in 1980. It was then converted to a restaurant.
By the early 1880s the churchyard had become full and a new cemetery was opened in Hockley Road.

“Ruffles” at 50 Hockley Road was the site of a windmill, one of five in Rayleigh. Benjamin Ruffles lived there, worked in the mill and married the owner’s daughter. He later bought the Tower Mill.

Barringtons. The Manor House, in which John de Barenton lived, stood on this site until 1679. Sir John was a keeper of the King’s park of Rayleigh. He has a brass plate in the church.
The present building facade was re-built in 1844. The building was bought by Rayleigh Urban District Council in 1952 for use as their headquarters. They then acquired high quality boardroom furniture from St John’s Hospital in Halifax. Unfortunately it was too large for the existing building so they built an extension. I expect we all know someone who has bought furniture which is too large but not many people can build an extension. I’ve been to public meetings there and it is very grand. In 1974 Rochford and Rayleigh were amalgamated as Rochford District Council. The new council decided to move the offices to Rochford and sell off Barringtons. The Council Chamber was retained.
Barrington’s Cottages and market. The cottages date from 18th century and are on the site of dwellings used by forest workers who, until c1600 maintained Rayleigh Park. Now Eskimowear.
The market was originally in the wide High Street or perhaps between Bellingham Lane and High Street which may have been infilled later.

Half Moon. Thought to date from the 15th century. Convenient for stage coach passengers being near to London Hill. Also for church goers.
9 High Street. La Romantica. 17thc.
11 High Street. Squire’s teashop. 16thc. In 1900 was Mr Ratty Cook’s shoe shop.
Kingsleigh House. Built in the 1790s and stands on the site of an old coaching inn known as the Bull. Bull baiting took place in the garden behind.
Golden Lion hotel was one of the principal inns in the town but decayed when Crown Hill opened. Replaced by Fine Fare supermarket, car showroom, then Crocs and now Pink Toothbrush.
22 High Street. Bloomfield’s Drapery store was here. A small room held Barclay and Company Bank (no connection to Barclays of the present day). It was open for two hours, twice a week.
36 High Street. Rayleigh post office was here in a small room in a boarded cottage. Mail was collected from South Benfleet station. The Rev Curnock’s daughter smashed a window in demanding votes for women.
White Horse. Frontage dates from 19th c. Has an archway leading to the back, possibly for coaches.
Look out for Ernie Lane leading from High Street to Webster’s Way. Named after Rayleigh historian.

The pump is a reminder of the days when water was drawn from wells and ditches. Mains water started to come in from 1905.
Martyr’s memorial. Two Protestants were burnt in the High Street for their religious beliefs. This took place in 1555 in the reign of Catholic Queen Mary. Thomas Causton from Thundersley and Thomas Higbed of Horndon-on-the-hill, were tried and found guilty. Causton was burnt at Rayleigh and Higbed at Horndon. In June, John Ardeley of Great Wigborough was burnt at Rayleigh. A fellow villager, John Simson was burnt at Rochford. They were probably brought here as an example to the other Protestants in the Rochford Hundred.
In 1908 a memorial was erected to Causton and Ardeley plus two other local men – Robert Drakes of Thundersley and William Tyms of Hockley – who were burnt at Smithfield.
When the memorial was erected the remains of a burnt stake were found.
The horse trough and drinking fountain are 19th century. One of the few left in Essex. The Memorial, trough and fountain are Grade ll listed.

91 High Street. Formerly Sansom’s outfitters, also North Thames Gas Board offices. The right hand end dates back to the 14th century, making it the oldest known surviving secular building in Rayleigh. The Georgian style bowed shop windows date from the 1930s.
Spread Eagle. Another old inn.

The police had operated from rented premises or their own homes until they were located at the Weir. This was unpopular with the residents because it was so remote and in 1940 they moved back to the High Street. At one time the police station was on the corner of Eastwood Road at Dollmartons. The current station is very large because it was built as a regional station.
It and the parade of shops next to it replaced a row of boarded cottages with long front gardens which were used as shops and offices. Cramphorn’s had a shop there as did the electricity company.
The library opposite was built in 1965. Previously it had used the same site and was housed in Fields Billiards Hall, a traditional boarded property.
110 High Street. Here stood the Old Anchor Brewery and Maltings built in 1798. Water was pumped from the brickfield pond in Castle Road. Production ceased in 1922 when a body was found floating in the pond.
I can remember going with my mother to buy groceries in what I think was the International Stores. It was a very tall room with a gallery going round above our heads. The staff served you at the counter. No trolleys in those days.
Town sign erected in 1989 opposite Crown Hill.

Crown Hill. The railway across Essex was built in 1839. Travellers from London could take the train to Brentwood and continue to SE Essex by road, much faster. Coaches began to time their journeys to meet trains. I wish our buses did the same.
In 1856 the London Tilbury and Southend line opened. A twice daily coach between the Crown inn and South Benfleet was laid on.
The line from Shenfield through Rayleigh to Southend opened in 1889. Soon 30 people were working on the railway at Rayleigh. Many market gardening, orchard and nurseries grew up to feed the London market. Trippers increased to enjoy the views and others settled permanently. Many road transport people lost their jobs – blacksmiths, horse dealers, carriers etc.
Up to now, the main entry into Rayleigh from London was via London Hill. With the station at the foot of Crown Hill, there was a more direct route. Crown Hill was a dirt track so it needed making up and widening. At the top of the hill, the Crown inn benefited enormously. It was renamed the Crown and Railway and quickly became the leading hotel. The Golden Lion, which for a long time had been the leader, was now at the wrong end of the High Street. It lasted just another 40 years.
Landowners benefited from the railway – they could sell their land for market gardens or for new housing.
With the development of commuting, large tracts of land in Eastwood and elsewhere were built up.
This took some time and was delayed by the wars. When I lived in Wickford Road in the 50s, many of the side roads had houses but the roads were unmade. The fields opposite our house had drains laid but no houses because building stopped in 1939. Pearsons Farm kept cows in the fields behind our house and delivered milk in a horse and trap.

A traditional red telephone box has been preserved outside the Crown. Next to it stands an original King George VI postbox, transferred from Royal Mail in 1994 in return for a single red rose.
Edward Francis lived at 78-84 High Street, now Lloyds TSB. He was an enthusiastic amateur archaeologist who purchased the Mount in 1909 to prevent its loss to development and carried out some excavations at the site. Some antiquarians thought that it was a Stone Age earthwork. Its modern-day name, ‘Rayleigh Mount’, survives as a reminder of this confusion. Later he donated the Mount to the National Trust.

The Sadler’s restaurant stood in this area.
Hinksmans garage was destroyed by fire in the late 1960s.
Next door stood the Chequers public house with an archway leading to a row of cottages and a forge.

In the 1960s many of the old, historic buildings in the town centre were swept away. A Rayleigh Civic Society was formed in 1963. It had several battles to preserve old buildings and encourage good building and planning standards. A most controversial development was the application to demolish H. Mann and Sons, an ancient building occupying a prominent site. The decision to refuse demolition was a landmark.

The millennium clock at Mann’s Corner was unveiled in 1999. It’s still not working.

That concludes the tour of the High Street. I hope you found it interesting.
We can now go to the Castle. There are some steps to climb.



Rayleigh Castle or Mount.
Robert Fitzwimarc was landowner of the Honor of Rayleigh about the time of the Conquest. He was related to both William the Conqueror and Edward the Confessor. Edward gave him lands and important posts and William did not confiscate them after Hastings. Robert was the only pre-Norman landholder in Essex to keep his landholdings after the Conquest.
Sweyne, son of Robert, built Rayleigh castle in 1070. It started as a mound or motte, probably with a wooden tower on top, looking out over the Crouch valley. A ditch on the eastern side provided the earth to raise the mound. In the early 12th century the castle’s defences were extended by the digging of a ditch around land to the east of the mound, creating a flat, palisaded area for living quarters for the soldiers. This flat area was known as the bailey. An outer bailey extended the castle to Bellingham Lane.

Hubert de Burgh was given land including Rayleigh and Hadleigh. He built Hadleigh castle c.1230.
Queen Eleanor established a horse-breeding centre at Rayleigh castle. It was repaired in 1282. After that it continued to decline. In 1394 the people of Rayleigh were given permission to quarry the foundations.
Excavation and research into documents by Edward Francis in 1909. He gave castle to National Trust in 1923.
Now heavily overgrown and more wildlife site than heritage. Nevertheless the castle brought the town into being.

The Dutch Cottage opens at 1.45 so those of you intending to visit may like to lunch or shop.


Here is an interesting collection of photos and descriptions of old Rayleigh:-
http://www.rayleighbusiness.co.uk/history.asp